I can’t believe its over. The surreal experience of the Falklands, South Georgia Island and the Antarctic Peninsula expedition has been hard to put into words. Whilst out shooting I was watching the faces of our intrepid expeditioners adorned with a mix of bewilderment and awe. How can one now be? With the sheer bio mass of South Georgia and the surreal remote landscape of our planets 7th continent. It’s fair to say my well of awesomeness experiences spilleth over.
Setting sail from Ushuaia, Argentina, our voyage out of the Beagle Channel was full of excitement and in-trepidation. First timers are wary of stories of the raging Drake Passage whilst those revisiting the Southern Seas soothed the fears of the wary with stories of the ‘Great Drake Lake’.
A palpable excitement filled our first zodiac cruise as we silently rode to shore on New Island in the Falklands. A small walk and we were greeted by mammoth cliffs covered with the nests of Black Browed Albatross. Rockhopper Penguins interspersed throughout the cliff faces as Albatrosses soared above, below and around us. Caucau harriers battling for dominance of the skies above saw many aerial dog fights ensue.
Returning to the ship we sailed to our next location. West Point Island to a private farm property where we scales the hill to descend over the ridge line to intimately photograph the Rockhopper penguin colony and nesting Albatross.
With our fill of Rockhopper penguins we sailed onto Stanley the capital of the Falklands for an espresso a stroll through the museum and a few minutes of prehistoric speed Internet access.
Heading out to open sea to South Georgia Island a number of lectures are presented to keep all entertained and well rated before we arrived at the South Georgia Island coastline. Docking in Grytviken, we explored its historic derelict whaling station and paid respect at the final resting place of Ernest Shackleton.
Landings at Fortuna Harbour, Stromness Harbour, Gold Harbour and the magnificence of St Andrews Bay and Salisbury Plain provided magnificent photographic opportunities for King Penguins, Elephant Seals and Fur Seals. The awe of the sheer biomass of King Penguins and their brown fluffy chicks was irrepressive. Walking around these rookeries, it was hard not to feel overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of these majestic creatures. With their curiosity piqued, King Penguins approached photographers who remained motionless, watching intently and pecking at cameras and boots alike. Fur Seals put on displays of bravado, whilst Male Elephant Seals surprisingly moved their hulking masses rapidly to defend their harems from other male Elephant Seals with wandering eyes.
Casting off from South Georgia we set sail for the Antarctic Peninsula and all its glory. Our first stop was at Point Wild. It was hard to comprehend that 22 of Ernest Shackleton’s team survived 105 days there after their ship Endurance sank in the Weddell Sea. It certainly lived up to its name.
Zodiac cruising in Cierva Cove provided some stunning icebergs to photograph with much calmer weather than we had been experiencing in previous days. Landing at Neko Harbour provided the first opportunity for people to set foot on the continent on Antarctica. For many it was their 7th and final continent to set foot upon. Gentoo Penguins cavorting and hopping through the water provided more amazing photographic opportunities. Paradise Harbour was majestic and calm providing a great opportunity for some quiet contemplation of the enormity of our surroundings.
After returning to the ship we set sail to cruise the Lemaire Channel. Our intrepid crew deftly navigated our trusty vessel through this narrow waterway jam packed with Icebergs. The decks were laden as all were out photographing the amazing sights as the sun slowly set directly behind us in the Lemaire Channel casting pink and orange tones over icerbergs and ice encrusted mountain peaks like.
Our final landing at Cuverville Island provided a true taste of Antarctic weather. The wind was up, the temperatures were down, minus 30 degrees celsius in the open. Any spray from the ocean was turned to ice within milliseconds. The bite of the chilling winds felt like needles on ones bare face. The snow and ice blown by the wind looked like the start of a dust storm as it blasted past ones legs. These amazing environmental conditions provided amazing photographic opportunities as the colony of Gentoo Penguins walked single file along the beach and carried on their every day lives in the rookery un-phased by the piercing winds. A perfect end to an amazing experience on the Antarctic Peninsula.
Our last few days were spent reflecting the numerous highlights of this amazing expedition as we crossed the powerful Drake passage around Cape Horn and back in to the Beagle Channel to dock in Ushuaia.
Another amazing photography expedition and another amazing group of photographers to create some more beautiful memories with.
In a few days I’m headed back down to the Antarctic Peninsula for a second expedition. I must say I’m very excited to be sharing this experience once again with some more fellow photographers, some for their first time, to this majestic continent with all its beauty.